What exactly do jewels do in watches? Everything you need to know.

If you've ever read a watch specification, you might have noticed terms like "17 jewels" or "21 jewels ." But what do those jewels in a watch actually mean? Are they real gemstones? And why are they important? In this blog post, we'll explain exactly what jewels do in watches , why they're used, and how they affect a watch's performance.

What are jewels in a watch?

Jewels in watches are small, industrial gemstones, usually made of synthetic sapphire or ruby. Contrary to what some people think, they are not luxury diamonds or natural rubies. These artificial gems are extremely hard and wear-resistant, making them ideal for use in watchmaking.

Why are jewels used in watches?

In a mechanical watch, many parts constantly move over each other. This friction causes wear and can affect accuracy. By placing a jewel at critical friction points, such as under gears and in the escapement (the watch's regulator), friction is drastically reduced. This ensures:

• Less wear and tear

• Better accuracy

• Longer lifespan of the watch

• More efficient operation of the watch

In other words, without jewels, mechanical watches would wear out much faster and be less reliable.

How many jewels does a watch need?

A standard mechanical watch usually contains between 17 and 21 jewels . This number is sufficient to protect the most important wear points. Some luxury or highly complex watches, for example, with additional functions (complications) such as chronographs or perpetual calendars, can contain up to 30 jewels or more.

Important: More jewels don't automatically mean a better watch. After a certain point, extra jewels become more of a marketing tool than a technical necessity.

What types of jewels are in watches?

There are different types of jewelry, each designed for a specific function:

• Pallet stones : small stones on the anchor fork that evenly transmit the energy from the clockwork.

• Balance staff jewels : support the balance wheel and reduce friction during rotation.

• Hole jewels : function as bearings in which shafts rotate.

• Cap jewels : flat stones that provide extra support and protection.

Each jewel therefore has its own role in optimising the functioning of the timepiece.

Are jewelry important when buying a watch?

Yes, but with nuance. When buying a mechanical watch, it's good to know that a minimum of around 17 jewels is standard for decent quality. More jewels are sometimes necessary for watches with additional complications, but they don't guarantee better finish or accuracy.

Therefore, focus primarily on the craftsmanship of the timepiece and the reputation of the brand, rather than purely on the number of jewels.

Summary :

Jewels in watches are functional, synthetic rubies or sapphires that reduce friction and thus contribute to the longevity and precision of a mechanical movement. They are essential for the reliability of your watch, but more jewels don't always mean a better watch.