Small, green and Japanese: the surprise of Kuoe

Sometimes a watch comes along that you never saw coming. A good friend returned from Japan with a Kuoe Old Smith 90-007 on his wrist. It is a brand most people have never heard of, but one that is already making waves in the microbrand world. We took a comprehensive look at it and have a clear opinion.

Who is Kuoe?

Kuoe is a young brand, founded in 2020. The founder studied in London and ended up in a shop full of vintage watches. Those visits left a lasting impression. After his studies, he returned to Kyoto, spent a few years learning the trade, and then started his own brand and shop.

The beauty of it: everything is assembled in Kyoto, from A to Z. They also handle quality control themselves. And in their shops, cases and straps are kept separate so you can create your own combinations. Not a standard off-the-shelf set, but exactly the watch that suits you.

First impression: small, round, and very green

The Old Smith is Kuoe's classic line. The first thing that stands out is the size: 35 mm. That is truly small. Yet it works, precisely because of the space on the dial and the round design. This isn't a sports watch, and for a classic model, you can get away with this size just fine.

The green dial is bold. On a larger watch, it might be too much, but at 35 mm, it lands just right. If you want an honest answer: we actually think the green is quite cool.

The details that make the difference

Kuoe has given a lot of thought to the little things:

• Small seconds dial at the bottom. The second hand gets its own spot on the dial, which gives the whole piece a classic character.
• Curved minute hand. The tip curves along with the domed crystal, so you can read the hand clearly even under the curvature.
• A unique crown placement. Striking and different from what you are used to. It subconsciously contributes to that super-round feel.
• Domed sapphire crystal with an internal coating. The anti-reflective coating is subtle and a shade darker. No exaggerated blue sheen that makes the watch look cheap, as we have seen on some other models.

Movement and specifications

Ticking inside the Old Smith is a Miyota automatic movement from the 82-series, a reliable entry-level caliber. Miyota itself maintains a wide tolerance of several tens of seconds per day, but in practice, this example stays well within that.

• Case diameter: 35 mm
• Lug width: 18 mm
• Crystal: domed sapphire
• Water resistance: 50 meters (washing hands and getting caught in the rain are no problem, we advise against swimming)
• Straps: equipped with quick release

The steel bracelet: good, with one drawback

We wore it on the steel bracelet. It wears comfortably thanks to the short links. The links are not screwed but use a pressure mechanism. The clasp is similar in design to Rolex, but it closes well and feels refined. Furthermore, the clasp features a three-position micro-adjustment, so you can get the size just right.

The only downside: there is minimal play between the bracelet and the case. You barely feel it, but it does make the watch wobble a little. A shame, as that wasn't necessary.

Steel or leather?

On one thing we quickly agreed: this watch belongs on leather. The flush fit of the steel bracelet to the case is nice, but the classic character of the Old Smith calls for a warm leather strap. Think brown, cognac, or dark green. Thanks to the quick release, you can switch in a few seconds without tools.

This one belongs on leather. Truth be told: no matter how neat the steel bracelet is, the Old Smith only truly comes to life on a leather strap. With an 18 mm lug width, you have plenty of choices. Check out our 18 mm leather watch straps.

What does it cost and what do you get?

At the time of writing, the Kuoe Old Smith 90-007 with a steel bracelet costs €705. And upon opening the box, it immediately became clear that Kuoe does not cut corners. Here is what you get:

• The watch on a steel bracelet, with push pins in the links and a clasp with three-position micro-adjustment
• Tools to resize the bracelet, so you don't have to go to a jeweler first
• A polishing cloth to remove fingerprints from the glass and the case
• A neat pouch to store the watch or take it with you on trips

On top of that, you get a watch with sapphire crystal and an automatic Japanese movement that was fully assembled and inspected in Kyoto. For a brand of this size, that is anything but a given.

Is it a bargain? No. Is it a fair price for what you get? We think so, especially if you love classic, small watches.

Kuoe has its own webshop with prices in euros, so ordering from the Netherlands is no problem. Just double-check if import duties and VAT are already included in the price, or if you still need to pay them upon delivery.

Heading to Kyoto

One of us is traveling to Japan soon, and Kyoto is on the itinerary. A visit to the Kuoe shop to try out combinations in person is, of course, a must.

Traveling with your watches. Bringing more than one watch on your trip? In a travel case, they stay firmly protected against bumps and scratches, stored neatly in your suitcase or carry-on. Check out our Travel Cases.

Final verdict

The Kuoe Old Smith 90-007 is a charming, classic watch with clever details, a fair price, and a real story. The 35 mm size is make or break: you have to love it. We think it fits into any collection, with one piece of advice: put it on leather.

Do you already know Kuoe? And would you wear it on steel or on leather? Check out the full review on our YouTube channel and let us know.

Frequently asked questions

Isn't 35 mm too small for a men's watch?
That depends on your wrist and your taste. For a sports watch, 35 mm is small, but for a classic model like the Old Smith, it works well and matches the vintage style.

What is the lug width of the Kuoe Old Smith?
18 mm, with quick release. This makes it easy for you to mount a different strap yourself.

Can you buy Kuoe watches in the Netherlands?
Yes, via Kuoe's own webshop with prices in euros. Just check if import duties have already been factored into the price.

How water-resistant is the Kuoe Old Smith?
50 meters. Suitable for daily use, washing your hands, and rain, but not for swimming.

What movement is inside?
A Japanese Miyota automatic movement from the 82-series.