Buying a second-hand watch: 5 tips to avoid bad purchases
Buying a pre-owned watch is one of the most enjoyable ways to expand your collection. You can find models that are no longer available in stores and often pay less than for a new one. But we know from personal experience that things can also go quite wrong. In this blog, we list the five mistakes we have made ourselves or seen up close, so you can avoid them.
Also check out our video on the 5 mistakes when buying a pre-owned watch, in which we share our own horror story.
Mistake 1: buying the watch, but not the seller
On Chrono24, Catawiki, Marktplaats, or eBay, you sometimes come across a watch that is just too good to be true. The photos look good and the price is sharp. First, look at who is selling it. Is it one of their first sales and does the seller have zero reviews? Then we personally skip it. A seller with hundreds of reviews and a score around 98 percent, as you often see on eBay with sellers of Japanese watches, provides much more assurance.
Always opt for buyer protection
Equally important is how you pay. At Chrono24, you do not pay the seller directly. The money stays with Chrono24 until you have received the watch and the inspection period has passed. Catawiki works similarly: you pay the platform, which only forwards the payment after receipt. Large platforms do not want any hassle and therefore hold the money as a buffer until both parties are satisfied.
Does a seller ask you to pay via PayPal using the “friends and family” option? Never do that. That option is a regular money transfer without buyer protection. If something goes wrong, you won't get your money back.
Our own learning moment with a Tudor
On a pleasant summer evening, with a drink in hand, one of us was scrolling through Catawiki and came across a beautiful Tudor with a champagne-colored dial. The thirtieth birthday was coming up, friends promised a contribution, and with one final bid, it was ours. When the alcohol had worn off and the watch arrived, it turned out to be wrong. Among other things, it had a different clasp than in the photos. Fortunately, we were able to return it through the platform and got our money back. That is exactly why: always pay within the platform.
Mistake 2: not checking if everything is original
Authentic or fake is not the only question. A genuine watch may have been fitted with non-original parts during a previous service: a reprinted dial, replacement hands, or a different crown. This has a major impact on the value.
Here is how you check it:
- Search for the reference number and compare the advertisement with factory photos of that exact model.
- Pay attention to the crown, hands, hour markers, and the clasp.
- Look at the lume: if the color or aging differs between the hands and indices, something may have been replaced.
- Ask for the serial number and check if it fits the production period.
You won't learn everything from photos, but they give you a good indication.
Mistake 3: ignoring the service history
An automatic watch is a small machine and needs a service every few years. Depending on the brand and how often you wear it, that is roughly between 5 and 10 years. Compare it to a used car: a fresh MOT and a major service are simply worth money.
One of us bought a TAG Heuer from a Japanese seller that had been fully serviced six months earlier. Then you are set for a while, often for several years.
Note: “serviced” in an advertisement does not say everything. Ask by whom it was done, what exactly happened, and if there is an invoice. Also ask the seller if they can put the watch on a timegrapher and share the result. This way, you can immediately see the state of the movement.
Have you scored an automatic watch and don't wear it every day? With a watch winder, the movement stays in motion and your watch is on time the moment you put it on. Especially useful if you rotate multiple automatic watches. View our watch winders here.
Mistake 4: paying for box and papers without verifying them
A watch as a "full set" often carries a significant premium. In that case, it must truly be a full set. Loose boxes are easy to get, second-hand or even replicated. We now have a pile of loose TAG Heuer boxes ourselves, so we know how easily a random box ends up with a watch.
Whether the box belongs to the watch is difficult to check. You can, however, verify the papers well:
- Compare the serial number on the warranty card with the serial number of the watch.
- Check if the purchase date fits the period in which the watch was produced.
- Ask the seller for clear photos of all documents.
Conversely: we always buy online with papers. With older watches, these are often lost, and then a purchase without papers can be fine, but only if you have seen the watch yourself or if it has been opened and parts, serial number, and case have been checked.
Mistake 5: not looking closely at the case and bracelet
Scratches are fine, over-polishing is not
A watch with scratches has lived, and that is not a problem at all. Be suspicious, however, if edges that should be sharp are rounded and smoothly polished. In that case, metal has been removed, for example, to hide damage or to make the watch look shiny for the photos. Good polishing is specialist work. Even experienced watchmakers often prefer to leave it to a specialist.
The bracelet test
Does the watch have a metal bracelet? Hold the watch by the case so that the band sticks out sideways. If the band remains reasonably straight, it is in good condition. If it sags significantly, the links and pins have been worn out by dust and sand. Repair is sometimes possible, but often costly.
Is the original bracelet worn out? A good strap is a smart and affordable solution. Measure the lug width and choose a rubber, leather, or NATO strap that suits your watch. Check out our watch straps.
Our verdict
Buying a pre-owned watch is not a gamble if you approach it smartly. Look at the seller, pay only with buyer protection, check if all parts are original, ask about the service history, and take a critical look at the box, papers, case, and bracelet. We learned a few of these lessons the hard way. Hopefully, this saves you the trouble. And do you have a horror story of your own or a great purchase? Let us know below the video.
Once you have scored a beautiful pre-owned watch, make it truly yours with a new strap and protect it on the go in a Travel Case.
Frequently asked questions about buying a pre-owned watch
Where can I safely buy a pre-owned watch?
Choose a platform with buyer protection, such as Chrono24 or Catawiki, and a seller with many positive reviews. Always pay via the platform itself.
How do I know if a pre-owned watch is authentic?
Compare the reference number and details with factory photos, check the serial number and papers, and if in doubt, have the watch checked by a watchmaker.
What does "full set" mean for a watch?
Full set means the watch comes with the original box and papers, such as the warranty card. Always check if the serial number on the papers matches the watch.
How often does an automatic watch need a service?
On average between 5 and 10 years, depending on the brand, movement, and how often you wear it. Modern Rolex and Tudor models are around 10 years; many other brands are sooner.
Is paying via PayPal friends and family safe?
Not when buying from a stranger. That option offers no buyer protection, so if something goes wrong, you won't get your money back.